Mark Six Spartan Helmet

Title of Work: Spartan Mk VI Helmet

Media: Card Stock, Elmer's Glue, Super Glue, Fiberglass Resin, Fiberglass Cloth, Room Temperature Vulcanizing Sealant, Foam Cushion, Polarized Motorcycle Visor, Vacuum Cleaner Tube, Automotive Body Filler, Spot Putty, Spray Paint

I am quite fond of the process of creating replicas. The method I use blends technical digital skills and physical, hand-made craftsmanship.

Pieces such as this begin in the digital phase where they are represented as a three-dimensional object. The computer handles flattening the 3-D shape into separate groups of polygons. The "flattened" shape is then printed onto heavyweight card stock. (Card stock is used for both increased structural integrity in the piece's initial phase and then later for shape retention and to prevent warping when fiberglass resin and other chemicals are applied for strengthening.) Polygons are printed with corresponding numbers so that their edges may be aligned and attached with printed tabs. Polygon edges are often "scored" (cut lightly with an exacto knife to make folding easier and cleaner) 

After cutting out the shape's polygons, scoring and folding them, and aligning and attaching edges, the first form of the project is complete. The piece is made entirely of card stock and is still in its most initial, skeletal phase. After the frame is assembled, the process of strengthening begins. The piece is coated with 1-2 layers of fiberglass resin. Once it dries, the piece is sturdier but still quite brittle. Adding fiberglass cloth to the inside of the piece increases its strength exponentially.

After strengthening, the process of detailing begins. This is my personal favorite phase, as it allows for creative input and adding your own touch. The first step is applying automotive body filler to the exterior surface of the piece. After letting it dry, the piece is then sanded down thoroughly. This smooths out all of the hard edges created by the initial polygonal frame. The amount of effort put in to the detailing phase greatly reflects in the final product. This is another reason why this is my favorite phase. When the piece has been sanded adequately, spot putty is then used in the same process. This removes all hairline scratches and pinholes.

Once the piece reaches the desired level of detail, it's time for the final phase. Perhaps just as good if not better than detailing is painting. To ensure the chosen color shows through the best, a coat of flat black primer is applied to the piece. During this time, any required masking can be done with tape or similar materials. After painting the piece the desired color, the piece is then "weathered". This is done by spraying flat black in the piece's deep grooves and indentations. In the seconds following the application, the paint is wiped of with a cloth. The remnant paint in the deepest part of the grooves accentuates them and gives it an overall worn look. For added measure, and to create the illusion of metal, a coat of silver paint is "Dry-brushed" on to the edges of the piece. This involves spraying the paint directly onto a paint brush and painting along the edges to create a weathered metal effect.

After the piece is painted and detailed, it's then fitted with any ornamental or auxiliary elements. This particular piece includes a polarized motorcycle visor that was cut to shape and fitted with a Dremel tool. It's interior is also fitted with foam to make it a wearable piece.